Is there any truth to the grouse that foreign models are taking over jobs from local ones in the country? ZUHAILA SEDEK speaks to those in the industry.
THE Malaysian fashion scenario today is such that modelling may promise glamour, but it seems the limelight is not so easily won if you are not Caucasian.
Many feel that there are too many foreign models on the runways, depriving locals of the chance to prove their worth.
And it’s not for the lack of local talents. From way back in the ‘70s right until recently, we’ve produced many credible catwalk queens.
(Datin) Adib Yasmin, Juriah Jamil, Shasha, Shigim, Nik Marini, Yvonne Blake, Yvonne Gabriel and Christine Lim were among those who had carved a niche for themselves in the industry at the time when local models were most appreciated.
The scene today, however, is not like what it was those days. Names such as Nasha Aziz, Tengku Azura, Tinie, Anita Aziz and Amber Chia still rule the catwalk but some of them have been around for about 10 years.
Sadly, since the ‘90s, when they first began modelling, no new talents have been honed for the local runway. Designers and modelling agencies — even homegrown brands — are said to prefer foreign models over the locals.
Aisyah (not her real name) is a 22-year-old who is fed up trying to make a living as a model.
“I wish I was a foreign model because it is easier to get gigs here,” she lamented.
“I thought as a local model, I would come first before an outsider but it’s not like that at all here. It is sad that even local brands prefer to use foreign models. I’d have thought they’d be proud to show off Asian beauties rather than blonde, blue-eyed Caucasians. But that’s not the case.
“It’s not fair. We’re stuck in a world where ‘white supremacy’ rules. Nowadays, skin colour comes first before talent. Not all foreign girls are good models; in fact, most of the local models are much better.”
Indeed, Malaysia seems to be a gold mine for young girls — especially those from Eastern Europe — to try their luck at modelling. Some of them, claimed Aisyah, can’t even make it in their own country but are getting quite the royal treatment here.
Another model, Jasmine Loh, said the so-called ideal look of foreign models is sometimes equated with international quality.
“Sometimes, it’s the good direction in photography or styling that gives an ad campaign an international feel. It’s not so much about the models.
“The resentment felt by some local models has led to ugly scenes at times. A local model has to work harder to secure a job. Not only that, we’re also scrutinised by the people who don’t believe in us,” added Jasmine.
Andrew Models founder Andrew Tan agreed that products are better remembered when a Pan-Asian or Caucasian face is used.
In the '70s, a lot of brands featured local models in their advertising campaigns.
“Subconsciously, we have accepted that this is the ideal personification of a product, especially since we grew up in a world of international advertising,” said Andrew, adding that the country is short on local talents who possess the qualities required by international labels.” Local models are usually petite. Foreign ones are closer to the ideal mannequin size and shape for a standard fitting.
“For fashion shows, the ideal height for female models is between 175cm and 180cm, while male models need to be more than 182cm tall. They should also have a healthy and glowing complexion with photogenic features.
But Andrew, one of the biggest local modelling agency tycoons, insisted there is no discrimination in the selection of models.
“International labels usually ask for international models due to the fitting of their clothes. Local designers ask for more experienced local models because they are better at parading gowns, elegant evening dresses and traditional wear,” Andrew said, indicating some kind of balance.
Syazlin Azmi, executive director of Deballz talent agency, said all models have an equal chance to earn their place in the industry, although local talents might have to put in some extra effort.
“We do have Malaysians who appeal to the international market. It’s the attitude of clients and brands that matter. Most of them think foreign models make their brands more classy and internationally accepted,” she said.
“Using international models, however, increases their budget since there are tax and permits involved.”
It has also been said that foreign models would get at least 20 per cent more than what a local model would get per job.
Fashion designer Datuk Tom Abang Saufi said designers have no hidden agenda when using foreign models to promote their clothes.
“As a designer, it’s the look for the clothes that we want to highlight. We may want to have different looks for the designs we’ve created.
“If a designer wants to market his product internationally, he may have to use international models so that the global market can have an idea of how the clothes will look.
“Having said that, I am a bit concerned about what will happen if local models such as Tengku Azura and Tinie retire. We don’t have anyone new to replace them,” she said.
Model Amber Chia has her own take on this. She thinks the industry has enough local talents.
“It’s the brands that should be held responsible. They are the ones who demand for too many foreign models in their advertising campaigns. Advertising influences people. If too many Caucasian models are being used, then it might just be what is accepted by the public,” said Amber.
Hartini “Tinie” Mat Jasin, who has been modelling for 10 years, said that while some semblance of “equality” exists, it is difficult to find locals who can model for big international brands.
“You must have perseverance and discipline if you want to get jobs here. I get the same treatment as foreign models.”
Apart from the claim that foreign models are dominating our fashion scene, there is also the concern that those (usually in their late teens or early 20s) are working here using their student passes.
Andrew said that like any other business that uses foreign workers, work passes are required for foreign models to work here, too.
“We have a network of scouts and agents all over the world representing models from different countries. Once an international model receives positive feedback from our managers and clients, we begin the necessary paperwork for work passes,” said Andrew, who is vice-president of the Modelling Association of Kuala Lumpur.
“We are currently investigating the claim that there are foreign models working here illegally.
If there is any truth to this, we will report it to the necessary parties.”
Lia and Annabelle (not their real names), from Russia and Uzbekistan respectively, are among the many foreign models who have flooded the local market.
They’ve been modelling here for more than a year. Lia, 20, said: “I decided to come here because it’s a great opportunity to travel. Plus, Malaysia has quite a number of Russian models, so I don’t feel left out here.
“I love working here but I can understand why some Malaysian models are unhappy about foreign ones taking a lot of jobs here. But the fact is, most foreign models here fit the criteria to do the catwalk... especially when it comes to height.”
Nineteen-year-old Annabelle hopes Malaysians won’t create a fuss about the presence of foreign models here. “I really need this job. My family in Uzbekistan is poor. I’m glad to be given the opportunity to work. If you were to take this away from me, my family and I would be in trouble.
“If there is no demand for foreign models here, I will have nowhere to go,” she said.
