Gareth Pugh, one of Britain's most avant-garde young designers, has made his debut at the Paris prêt-à-porter season with a stark, futuristic show, entirely in black and white, inspired by Hamlet, Millais' Ophelia and Elizabeth I.
His models emerged, as if from the 'dark side of the moon', in articulated, armour-like designs, which were white at the front and black at the back. The monochromatic theme was echoed in the hose, gloves, ruff-collars, finger- and toe-nail polish and the extreme make-up, with the eyes apparently downcast under black and white plastic false eyelids.
The show, which featured two of the top London models, Lily Donaldson and Jourdan Dunn, included pieces made in industrial leather, stretch fabrics, eelskin and plastic.
Pugh, 27, one of the stars of London Fashion Week for the past three years, has built a cult following for his bizarre, cartoon-costume creations involving cyber-gothic ensembles in leather, metal and PVC, accessorized with masks, 'topiary' headgear and fetishistic footwear.
One of his biggest fans is the singer, Kylie Minogue. He has also designed for the rock 'n' roll star, Marilyn Manson.
Pugh's showing in Paris follows his winning, earlier this year, the prestigious French ANDAM award for new talent. Worth 150,000 Euros, the scheme is supported by the French government and LVM H (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) and Yves Saint Laurent, among others.
Madame Nathalie Dufour, founder and director of ANDAM, called his fashion arrival in Paris the most talked about since that of fellow-Brit, Alexander McQueen.
"Winning ANDAM came at the right time," Pugh said. "I needed to get off the merry-go-round and get on the roller-coaster; I needed to kick myself out of the comfort zone that London had become and give myself a challenge.
"I feel a bit like a fish out of water, but Paris is well-trod territory for British designers, who are prepared to push the boundaries and they seem to be well-received here.
"In London, you're pushed to do something that sells. But you can do that in the showroom. The catwalk is the dream, the essence of what your designs and concepts are all about. In Paris, they take that more seriously."
Pugh was born in Sunderland, the son of a policeman, and his early years have a touch of "Billy Elliot" about them. Starved for fashion and creativity, he originally trained as a ballet dancer, appeared in pantomimes and became a costume designer for the National Youth Theatre at the age of 14.
He later studied at Central Saint Martins fashion college in London, where his graduation show featured clothes made from striped balloons.
