Structured garments fused with gentle, linear movement produce an ideal rhythm. The Malo Collection for spring–summer 09, designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, stems from a dynamic transformation of “suspension” into lightness and flow. As an expert in the delicate nature of superfine cashmere, Malo redefines the complex modernity of a contemporary femininity.
The garments combine several elements to achieve a new expression in sensual grace. Some are formed by feathery, knitted drapes, others with strips of fabric and cashmere stitched together with a thread so fine they look suspended. Worlds apart from the rigid construction of couture, these designs update the very idea of feminine glamour. Clothes are inspired from the nineties to create delicate structures in luxurious materials and cloak the female form in elegance.
So here then is cashmere, Malo’s hallmark, performing in extraordinary ways. Transformed into a fabric by punto stoffa work, it creates sweaters and dresses consisting of layers of mobile textures. Like those of jackets built on a structure of organdie or garments based on coupling silk and cotton or cashmere and muslin. Sleeves are attached to the body with transparent, imperceptible thread.
The knitwear, which is Malo’s history, recovers its true meaning here embodied in extremely low weights. It thus manages to create jackets and dresses in ultralightweight yarn, bustier and body only seemingly rigid, being constructed in fact like foundational garments.
The colours are delicate and understated: ivory, tea rose, azure and jade in pastel tones, with flashes of iris, emerald and peony.
The decorations too are in suspension and motion, revealing the uniqueness hidden in detail: a “mobile” embroidery reproducing the shape and glints of a diamond facet becomes an ornament on skirts and dresses, some used to enhance other detailing, and others at times mimic pockets and cuts.
In this spectacle of suspension, accessories serve as discreet pedestals. The shoes have high heels, strong and highly ornamented. The leather boots have hard forms. The bracelets and gloves ease Punk into luxury: the former having facetted leather “diamonds”, the latter, fingerless, with metal sequins embroidered onto the back of the hand.
source: fibre2fashion
