Cost-conscious consumers may choose French designer Jean Paul Gaultier's swimsuit-meets-wrap dress creations (two for the price of one!) while nature freaks could opt for Japanese designer Dai Fujiwara's green looks for Issey Miyake.
And wouldn't any discerning fashionista covet those suede and silver platform sandals from Greek designer Sophia Kokosalaki, with their hint of 1980s power dressing?
"Honestly, we don't know. It's all a big guessing game," Ronald L. Frasch, president and chief merchandising officer for Saks Inc., told The Associated Press.
The executive described the economic crisis affecting the North American retail sector as "maybe the worst I've ever seen."
"Clearly, the ones who are in the best position are the ones who have the strongest brand names. The ones who have the most difficulty are the ones who are either beginning to develop or trying to get their goods onto the market," Frasch said.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Gaultier turned his headquarters into a rehearsal studio, sending out a dance-inspired spring collection driven by his recent collaboration with a top choreographer.
The show opened with a trio of dancers twirling across the catwalk, setting the stage for a parade of wraparound jersey dresses that, once untied, transformed into elegant swimsuits with capes attached to the neck.
"To me, clothes on a hanger are simply still lives. It's only when someone wears them that they come alive," Gaultier told reporters after the show. "Here, the idea was to create clothes that have several uses. You can go for a swim, you can also go out and it turns into a dress."
From floor-sweeping chiffon dresses crisscrossed with ribbed bands to jersey shifts with cut-out cage details, the former enfant terrible of French fashion delivered a collection with strong commercial appeal.
Nonetheless, Gaultier CEO Christophe Caillaud predicted sales at the brand would grow modestly this year in comparison with 2007. "If we do see growth, it won't be very high. It won't be two figures," he told The AP.
SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI
Italian entrepreneur Renzo Rosso has a habit of defying expectations.
The Diesel chief was in high spirits after watching the display of his protege Sophia Kokosalaki, dismissing warnings from retailers that emerging designers would be the first to suffer from the economic downturn.
"I am always brave, I want to do something fresh and modern," Rosso told The AP. "For me, it's how I have always done things."
In recent years, Rosso has expanded his portfolio of fledgling brands through his holding company, aptly named Only the Brave. In addition to Kokosalaki and French designer Martin Margiela, he recently bought a majority stake in the Dutch label Viktor & Rolf.
While Kokosalaki is critically acclaimed, she has yet to become a household name — and not only because most people can't pronounce her surname.
This season, the Greek designer drew inspiration from ancient civilizations ranging from Egypt to Mesopotamia.
She dipped into a treasure trove of beads and bugles to produce a stunning black tunic encrusted with gold embroidery, and a silver python bustier with a snake-shaped strap curling over one shoulder.
Rosso said that while he was happy to foster young talent, he planned to take a break from snapping up new brands. "I have enough," he said.
ISSEY MIYAKE
Fujiwara and his team headed for the Amazon rainforest equipped with more than 3,000 color swatches to research the color scheme for his Miyake collection.
A leaf green transparent silk tunic was layered over a matching bandeau bikini for a sophisticated beach ensemble. Eco warriors may opt for the military-inspired items, which included a stand-out pair of combat pants with a twisted seam.
Since taking over as creative director last year, Fujiwara has steadily stamped his character on the prestigious Japanese label without challenging its founder's legacy.
Miyake's trademark pleated fabrics were sculpted into a swirling two-tone green shift, or a sculptural black cocoon dress, to stunning effect.
