Labour rights abuses at a leading Turkish leather goods exporter, Desa, is threatening to do irreparable damage to the reputation of Turkey’s export industry, trade unions across Europe claimed today. And they called on Europe’s leading fashion brands and retailers to enforce their codes of conduct and insist that Desa behave responsibly towards its workforce.
During 2008, DESA fired more than forty workers after they joined the leather trade union, Deri Is. In each of the cases where the Turkish Courts have so far pronounced judgment, they have found the firings due to union membership and thus unfair and have ordered re-instatement.
After months of pressure from global and European trade unions and some of the buyers, Desa finally embarked on negotiations with Deri Is on December 19. Broad agreement appeared to be reached at that time, but five meetings later the company refuses to commit to anything in writing, is now refusing to re-instate some of those dismissed and will not accept that it must engage with Deri Is as a social partner.
Trade union patience has run out. Today, trade unions across Europe led by the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation, the European Trade Union Federation for Textiles, Clothing and Leather and their affiliates from Italy, Spain, France and the United Kingdom have called on buyers, including Prada, El Corte Ingles, Daniel Hechter, Mulberry, Jaeger and Marks and Spencer, to use the contractual obligations of their codes of conduct to force Desa to end its bad faith bargaining and reach agreement with Deri Is on re-instatement of all the dismissed workers, recognize Deri Is as the legitimate representatives of its members in the company and put in place management systems capable of ensuring long-term mature industrial relations.
Said Patrick Itschert speaking for the unions today, “Enough is enough! We kick-started negotiations on December 19. Desa gave every indication of accepting the principles of the key union demands to bring it into line with Turkish law, International Labour Standards and the Codes of Conduct of its main buyers. A month later it is still dragging its feet with no end in sight. Prada and the other fashion buyers must now show that their codes mean something and insist that Desa fulfill its labour obligations.
“Desa’s prevarication must be ended quickly before it does irreparable damage to the reputation of the entire Turkish export industry”, concluded Mr. Itschert.
