A radical, fresh season,
full of wit and joyous disorder,
that blends nature and artifice with brio,
takes clear positions on colour
and affirms, consciously and insouciantly, the energy of tomorrows.
It dedicates itself to the sustainable
and lauds the joys of the ephemeral.
It draws on the moment, to thrust itself into motion.
It soaks up many elsewheres to interpret them with skill.
It makes claims on space and takes its ease.
A season of nonchalant freedom,
with a gently grating flavour,
with a witting fullness,
that dares to cast itself in the thick of life,
with a light heart.
Colours9 : radical and fresh
A season where colour takes the floor, tenaciously, eloquently. It speaks straightforwardly of liveliness, boldness and absolutes. It sparks animated conversations between naturalness and artificiality. It opens up dazzling discussions between powerfully pigmented strengths and grating acidity.It tells dynamic and limpid stories, ready to weave the most gorgeous tales for spring summer 9.A heightened intensity is affirmed through surreal dyes, oversaturated with pigment.Grass is too green, the sky ultra blue, flowers extra bright, the earth supra-natural.
A technicolor vision.
Absolute clarity is concentrated in three exclusively neutral, luminous and pure tones.
Their motto is simple: fundamentally white, clearly ecru, essentially grey.
A quintessential perfection.
Grating liveliness with a synthetic freshness, acid-tones oscillate between chemical greediness and corrosive cocktails. A taste of the synthetic for astonishing flavour.
A spicy agitator.
Three temperaments espousing strong and radiant colour, and enthusiastic wit,for passionate and warm declarations.
The fabrics of the spring summer 09 season:
activating, idealising, radicalising
ACTIVATING
Seizing on freedom of movement as a driving force, and clearly affirming the importance of the physical and the sensory. Liberating oneself from all constraint, breaking free of rigidity,forgetting the weight of the past, the weight of materials or processes in favour of action. Exploding shackles,gleefully messing up decorations and textures. Saying no to fetters, leaving room between the body and fabric, and wrapping oneself at will in a sensual and lively fluidity. Lauding ease as something indispensable, elaborating fabrics that allow one to move gracefully,to evolve with assurance, and making the connection between elegance and nonchalance.
Taking a deep breath and GOING FOR IT
WITH lightness
Unloading textures to the max, without ever reaching transparency. Elaborating high-density qualities with «nano»yarn counts to approach a petal-like delicacy. Flirting with weightlessness in ultra-refined cottony or woolly suitings.Adopting a filament lightness, with
second-skin jerseys, airy silks, and silent synthetics, all opaque and impalpable.Favouring fullness through floaty fabrics,which provide weightless cover and trace the body’s movements without hindrance.
WITH motion
Boosting the liveliness of behaviours.Moving away from drape, and searching for energy. Toning up fluidity, giving life to runny knits and spring to silky or cottony crepes. Enlivening surfaces with sensitive quiverings. Punctuating crepons, alternating thickness and
lightness to create unpredictable volumes. Letting fine cotton and
linens live naturally, without ironing or smoothing.
WITH the body
Heightening the malleable nature of fabrics to favour mobility.Simulating the plasticity of design materials, the supple thickness of silicones, and developing ergonomic, flexible and
graceful textiles. Shaping structured and voluptuous volumes, joining sportiness and elegance with supple double faces,dense cottons and thick silks.
WITH fantasy
Shaking up familiar motifs, animating geometry, scattering bouquets and
disseminating florals. Upsetting the conventions of colour wovens, playing on proportions and colourways with eccentric accents. Scrambling stripes, breaking stick stripes, sidetracking ginghams, graphically transcribing the gestures, the speed: valorising the grace
in sketches, the spontaneity in scribbles.
IDEALISING
Assuming one’s freedom of being,one’s emotions and feelings, defending one’s intuitions and convictions.Embellishing tomorrows, emphasising reality, sublimating nature, ennobling the present, and exalting improvisation.Giving oneself license to choose the
multiple over the binary, to select the associative, to believe in community, in the force of many. Opening up one’s eye without prejudice and spontaneously playing on the richness of elsewhere
to create improbable alliances.Juggling references and accepting the
contradiction of fashion timings, with lightness and passion. Joyously enlisting in a better tomorrow.
exalting rusticity
Clinging to the raw aspect of linen,hemp and ramie fibres, to extract an ideal irregularity, an icon of naturalness.Freeing oneself from 100% authentics and aspiring to a «super» natural.Combining a vegetal aspect with artificial colours, developing technical fabrics with a cotton or linen look and feel. Targeting the precision of fine slubs in shirtings, fine suitings and dense cottons. Dosing the asperities
of shantung and tweedy looks, accentuating ring effects and conferring
fantasy status on them. Combing the rusticity of yarns with the rigour of structures: panamas, ottomans and marked diagonals.
upsetting the past Flitting without prejudice among western
and exotic folklores and customs. Allowing a sentimental view of idealised authenticity. Exploring the decorative richness of ceramics to extract avantgarde translations. Recalling the “fine
linens”, tablecloths, tea towels and shirts of yesteryear to invent today’s countrified stripes and checks, to elaborate jacquards with a contemporary accent.
cultivating eclecticism
Telescoping decorative features,juxtaposing selected elements of
disparate styles and provenance.Collecting from all corners with the
instinct of a connoisseur and the insouciance of an amateur: allying comicbook graphics, illustrative drawings and ethnic ornaments. Decorating with a multicultural mosaic, in polychromes and pluri-technical collages. Wittily adding-on yarn dyes, ikat-looks,
embroideries and prints. cheering up the ethical
Dreaming of a better world and bridging ethicalness and fantasy. Signing on for a sustainable-development approach without giving in to moralising. Choosing bio diversity and reconsidering the ecological potential of synthetic fibres.Embellishing organic fibres, recyclable
or recycled materials. Extracting oneself from the weakness of the
«totally organic» image, to join fashion and respect for the environment with panache.
RADICALISING
Affirming one’s freedom of thought and analysis, proclaiming one’s determination to create, declaring one’s commitment to optimism. Fighting trivialisation, propagating the power of differentiation,
and enthusing over clarity, generosity and frankness. Believing in silk and in the return of cotton, electing mattness, cheering up volume. Creating dimension from the inside, diving into materiality, totally investing oneself in the artistic.
MATTNESS
Getting to the heart of matter and refusing all deceptive vibration. Going for a deep and matt boldness. Elaborating compositions and surfaces to absorb light, and express a feeling of deep colour. Minimising shine to underline the value of mattness in jacquards, coatings and embroideries. Emerising cottons, washing linens, taking the shine off synthetics, muffling satins, bathing silks,taking the lustre off suits.
SIMPLICITY
Concentrating on ingenious and essential functions.Rethinking archetypes of workwear. Betting on their manifestly utilitarian visuals: canvas and basketweaves, marked drills and herringbones, yet rethinking their behaviours and functionalities. Adapting these «symbolic» weaves, whether natural or synthetic, to the new demands of well-being and efficiency. Adjusting their compositions, weights
and performances to fashion.
SPACE
Constructing with an outward fragility and infallible architecture. Capturing air in structures, and figuring volumes on the inside. Knitting in 3 dimensions, weaving in 2. Assembling: inserting
honeycombs, layering transparency. Lightening quiltings, cloqués,
embossings and bringing out bubble fabrics. Drawing with emptiness, figuring gauzes, chiffons and organdies. Fine open working, stamping, all decorated with the fastidiousness of a silversmith and freestyle gestures.
EXTREMES
Choosing a graphic mode of expression and affirming it without concession.Taking a hardline approach, and refuting mid-sizes. Painting very largely, and strengthening the power of the line, decorating in thickness and filling space in its totality, covering surfaces with embroideries or opaque coatings. Maniacally drawing fastidious
miniatures, almost obsessive repetitions. Placing minuscule and precise motifs in large format, tending details and spacing out placement.
The season’s visual
A frozen frame, a particular light, a moment taken from a moving visual image,of a determined person, embodying optimism and sunny ideals, fantasy and energy,to express the spring summer 9 moment, with conscientiousness and a devil-may-care spirit, to dive right into the heart of life.
Trouillet creates an exclusive design for the hostesses
In this fresh, dynamic season, Première Vision wanted to give a special place to cotton fancy. In partnership with the French weaver Trouillet, hostesses at the Expofil, Première Vision and Indigo events will be dressed in energetic, fluorescent shirtdressesworn over trousers.
These relaxed silhouettes are given a new spin through the power
of the fabric itself, which was specially created for Première Vision: an electric pink gingham asymmetrically set-off by a thread of firefly green.In the dynamically coloured salon atmosphere, the hostesses, like ephemeral and artificial flowers, head out on their missions, gaily flitting through the shows to inform, steer and provide assistance to the great numbers of buyers and visitors attending the February 2008 events.
For more information about the Trouillet company,which is showing at the salon in the Relax universe, Colour Wovens:
Tel. + 33 (0)3 85 26 13 23 / trouillet@trouillet-cie.com
