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China: Jean genies

China: Jean genies

Write: Seville [2011-05-20]

Beijing jean lover Zhao Zhen and her collection of jeans from the frumpy to the feminine and everything in between. Wang Guan

China's love affair with denim is growing stronger and some aficionados are taking it to another level. Chen Nan reports

Zhao Zhen loves her light blue jeans that she bought four years ago in Edinburgh.

"They cost me nearly 170 pounds ($266). But Levi's are rarely sold in China, so I paid the money without any hesitation," the 27-year-old Beijinger says.

She's just one of millions of Chinese people who are turning to denim because of its fashionable status and cultural connections to the United States.

Zhao's jean collection ranges from the frumpy to the feminine and everything in between - from A-line jean skirts to skinny, straight and boyfriend cut; from black, sky blue to snow-washed.

"I've been attracted to jean stores since I went to university. I didn't have to wear a high school uniform, which enabled me to show myself off freely in different outfits," explains Zhao, who studied at Edinburgh University and now works at a Beijing publishing company.

Zhao learned her fashion theories from magazines and TV programs, but reckons she has her own style, especially when it comes to jeans.

"My whole fashion concept is to learn something new about jeans and how to match with other clothes, shoes and bags. It's a very natural feeling for me, like my second skin. It's my character."

For instance, she pairs a plain white shirt with a pair of skinny black jeans; or cuts straight blue jeans into a pair of shorts; or sews some bright colored buttons along the pockets of another pair of jeans.

There are more than 150 pairs of jeans in her closet, some bought from street fashion stores for 200 yuan ($29), while some from brand-name stores such as Replay, DKNY and Diesel cost up to 2,000 yuan.

"For me, jeans are suitable for any occasion and go harmoniously with other clothes, such as casual T-shirts and serious suits," she says.

Her parents, however, disagree and were shocked when they saw all her new jeans when she returned from abroad.

"I argued with them but they just don't think they are worth the money. But for me, jeans are comfortable to wear, convenient and durable," she laughs.

Her dream is to have her own fashion store one day, not only selling jeans but also expressing her ideas about matching clothes.

Zhang Hanxiao, 25, is another jeans lover, based in Shanghai. The young man works for a PR company and started his jean collection at university.

He says men have fewer fashion choices but jeans are neutral and suitable for anyone.

"Men like beautiful clothes even more than women," he says. "Men don't buy blindly. Instead, once we set a target, we spend big money on it."

The most expensive pair of jeans Zhang has bought is over 3,000 yuan.

Zhang is a member of a jean forum, one of the biggest and oldest jean-themed forums in China.

"There are more than 50,000 members and we chat about everything to do with jeans, from buying, to washing and maintaining.

"If you read the articles and see the pictures, you will realize how big the jean market is here in China."

International jean brands have a huge business potential in China.

According to Leilani Augustine, vice president of marketing and licensing for Seven For All Mankind, since the brand opened its first store in Hong Kong in July 2008, sales figures have doubled in Asia, despite the financial crisis.

"I see lots of trendy boys and girls wear various styles of jeans on the streets of Beijing and Shanghai, which is the same in the US," she says. "Even though the shape of Asians and Westerners are different, they are smart enough to choose a pair of jeans that look sexy, sophisticated and individualized."

Augustine says US culture has had a big impact on Asian consumers and this has contributed to the evolution of denim.

Fu Jiaqi has his own jean shop at Longfusi, near Wangfujing street. He is a regular columnist for fashion magazines, commenting on jeans brands.

The 28 year old started collecting jeans about 10 years ago.

"The most expensive jeans I have bought is from Japan and cost 7,000 yuan. They are old-fashioned, handmade jeans, which have been in my closet for years," Fu says.

Some of Fu's jeans aren't washed for two to three months, until they have natural lines that fit his body. This is a popular practice among young jeaners, called yang niu, or raising jeans.

Fu says his customers range in age from 25 to 50.

"It is not a matter of age or occupation, but a sense of dressing yourself up and having connections with the things you wear," he says.