Alex Wang's cotton wedding dress made a splash when it debuted on a hot summer's day in Beijing two weeks ago at a star-studded wedding hosted by Barbie Hsu, who also played a part in the gown's design. The piece contained signature elements of Wang, as he spruced up an unexpected fabric while signaling his new direction.
"As a fashion designer, you've got to be one step ahead of the times," Wang told the Global Times. "I'm always interested in things which have to do with environmental protection and green lifestyle and this is my first time to explore cotton as a material for a wedding dress."
"The inspiration of the design comes from nature," Wang explained. "The heart-shaped strip decoration on the chest symbolizes the desire for love and life; the cotton-braid flower decorating the hem creates a stereoscopic effect, bringing out the happiness of the newly weds."
Based in a 200-square meter studio in east Beijing, Wang keeps a low profile as a designer to the stars. He is behind many a creation worn by Chinese A-list celebrities such as Zhang Ziyi, Zhou Xun, Fan Bingbing and Gao Yuanyuan.
"The ideal style is getting clearer as time goes by: I want my design to be neutral and mellow, combining the strength and femininity of the woman together. I like meticulously dressed women in high-heel shoes, confident, optimistic and proud," Wang said.
From the strapless jumpsuit worn by Zhang Ziyi at the premiere of Sophie's Revenge (2009), to the sapphire blue gown Zhao Wei featured in a fashion magazine and the elegant black dress Gao Yuanyuan wore to Pusan International Film Festival, Wang's designs are ubiquitous.
"Collaborating with stars doesn't happen overnight like many people imagine. It's through years of hard work and word of mouth that you build up your reputation in the couture business," Wang explained. "First comes the fashion magazines, then the stars."
"I have worked a lot with actress Gao Yuanyuan. She borrowed my dress for a fashion magazine shoot a few years ago. Then in 2008, Gao asked me to design a dress for the promotion of City of Life and Death for Shanghai Film Festival. The dress was quite a success. Many people asked about her garment. This experience paved the way for our further collaboration," he said.
"I still remember the text message she sent me during Spring Festival, thanking me for all the beautiful moments that I brought her last year," he said, with a hint of pride.
Capturing the unique characteristics of each wearer is key for Wang, "That's the charm of the couture business," he said.
"I think the collarbone, back and legs are the most attractive parts of a female body, but when facing an individual client, I will ask her preferences, where she is most satisfied with her body. I will stress her advantages and conceal her shortcomings," he explained.
Majoring in fashion design at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, Wang worked with several major design houses before setting up his personal studio ALEX WANG in 2005.
"It's the dream for everyone in fashion to establish his own label. When I started my studio, there weren't so many independent designers. The couture business was still new in China," he recalled. "I think the work pattern and living conditions of independent designers here in Beijing is still somehow chaotic: There are not many successful examples to follow. In a sense, we are all pioneers in this field and those who survive have to work really hard for it."
Wang said that many young designers choose couture because it's low cost and low risk. "You don't have to spend a lot on the material and the customer pays a deposit before you start working," he explained.
"One major difference between operating a couture store and a ready-to-wear shop in a big shopping mall is that you get to meet the customer and when the customer finally gets the outfit she loves, her satisfaction brings a sense of achievement to the designer."
Wang's clients include women searching for a perfect wedding dress, celebrities and those looking for something different. "Every woman needs a few glittering moments in her life," he smiled. "I enjoy bringing out the beauty and elegance of female stars on the red carpet.
"I'd also like to serve a broader range of customer and establish my own ready-to-wear label in the future."
