Home Facts trade

Italy: Eternal elegance marks Valentino's swan song

Italy: Eternal elegance marks Valentino's swan song

Write: Rakel [2011-05-20]

Surrounded by merry models, dancing as if at a party, rather than at Valentino's ready-to-wear finale, the iconic Italian couturier took his bow.

But this swan song was nothing like the emotionally charged 45th anniversary celebration in Rome last summer - nor will it match the final farewell when the designer retires after his haute couture show in January.

"I am very happy," said Valentino, as Champagne corks popped backstage. "And I wanted to say so to everyone who has been with me for so many years - and to tell them not to forget Valentino."

As if! From the moment that the cry of "Marcello" from "La Dolce Vita" soundtrack resounded across the pin-wheel of a runway, Valentino transported his audience to his world, where women in bubble gum pink cocktail dresses swing bags made of feathers and have high heels tied with satin ribbons and bows.

The colors that splashed over the runway - Valentino red, of course; dashes of yellow; and polka dots on green and blue chiffon - were matched by long draughts of pure white.

They were dresses that, in their lightness and their delicate details, were quintessentially Valentino. What hostess among the front row's upscale ladies could resist a white chiffon apron like a misty veil over a sparkly dress? Or the gorgeous gowns that, even in retreat, were hyper-seductive, with signature bows just closing over a bared spine.

It was a perfect show in terms of expressing the designer's spirit, especially the harmonious prettiness that brought dresses of eternal elegance, just spiced with new thoughts, like a one-shoulder toga dress. That was a homage to current fashion - and maybe to Valentino's beloved Rome.

The show was a powerful personal send-off. If Alessandra Facchinetti, the successor chosen by Permira, the private equity firm that now owns Valentino, was in the audience or backstage, she kept a horizontal profile.