Beyond the sacred

Most people go to Siem Reap to experience Angkor Wat, but Rebecca Lo finds the sleepy town has evolved to become a place with a lot more to offer than just temple-hopping.

With tourism in nearby Siem Reap developing at an exponential rate over the past 20 years, the city now boasts a solid infrastructure of services and facilities to keep up with the increase in visitors. Luxury hotels are as ubiquitous as backpacker hostels; championship golf courses and horseback riding are welcome distractions and art and cultural sites abound beyond the walls of Angkor.

An increasing number of direct flights, including 13 per week from Guangzhou, is transforming Siem Reap into a viable long weekend destination. As Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport offers visas upon landing and on its website, more international travelers are discovering that Cambodia is a safe and genuinely friendly destination that has emerged from a troubled past to face the future with enthusiastic optimism.

"There is no shortage of trendy places here," says Chloe Chomienne, manager with Exotissimo Travel. "There is finally peace and economic development. It is a good value-for-money destination. Cambodians are really looking to the future. They have a different mentality than their Southeast Asian neighbors, although they share a similar culture. The people are warm and there is a lot of authenticity here. And it is safe for women and individual travelers."

Retreating to a comfortable haven after a hot and tiring day of sightseeing is vital in Siem Reap. For old-world colonial charm, you can't go wrong at Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor. This 1932 hotel was the first property to cater to weary tourists during the golden age of travel through Indochina. It retains many lovely touches such as guest rooms with ceramic doorknobs, claw-foot cast iron bathtubs and butlers handpicked from long-serving staff by the general manager.

If contemporary European sophistication is what you seek, then Le Meridien Angkor fits the bill. Its Angkor-style pool and Italian restaurant Angelo's are standouts; plus, it has the distinction of being the closet 5-star property to Angkor Wat. "It is the last bastion of civilization before the jungle," laughs Lee Ng, Le Meridien Angkor's director of sales and marketing.

New kid on the block Hotel de la Paix has already amassed a loyal following. It is easy to see why. Its location in the heart of the Old Market district means it is within easy walking distance to nearby pubs, restaurants and shops. Chic interior design courtesy of Bill Bensley gives it a sense of wit, underscored by swinging daybeds for al fresco dining and its ever-changing arts lounge showcasing the works of local and international talent.

For getting around the city, nothing beats the tuk tuk. These motorcycle-driven open-air carriages are fun and can seat between four to six passengers. Alternatively, you can hire a car and driver if the heat and humidity get too overwhelming, or opt to bike to and around Angkor Wat or the city if you are feeling energetic.

Hungry folks head to Le Passage where they can indulge in an assortment of traditional Khmer cuisine as well as international fare. Tucked between Pub Street and the Old Market, the explosion of restaurants here came about in 2008 when many of the buildings were renovated.

"This area was formerly all private homes," notes Sreyroth Chan, general manager of Amok. The pretty two-story colonial restaurant specializes in amok fish - a coconut-flavored steamed curry that melts in the mouth. "Amok fish is found in every traditional Cambodian household," explains Chan. "It is sweet and creamy, and every family makes it differently."